Light meter tests

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C6B237.DCD9BB40
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
My light meter tests
18% gray card reflection of sky light, 9:30 - 10:00 AM,
high sun behind thin high clouds, bright enough.
ISO 100 set for all meters:
Pentax K2/50mm F/2 18%: 125 F/8
(spd)
Soligor Spot- 18%: 125 F/8 +2/3
sensor II (spd)
Sekonic L-28c2 18%: 125 F/11 +1/3 Lumigrid in, high slide out
(selenium, 70's) Sky: 125 F/11 Lumisphere in, high slide in
Brockway M2 18%: 100 F/13 Photogrid in, high slide out
(selenium, 50's) Sky: 100 F/11 Sphere in, high slide in
Sekonic L-162 18%: 125 F/11 +1/2 front closed, slit read
(selenium, 60's) 18%: 125 F/8 front open (booster closed
for both)
I bought the K2 used recently, did put one roll of gold
100 through just to see how the shots would come out
staying straight with it's meter readings, nothing special.
They came out like "perfect", using the super market's
kodak service. As a result I am confused as a non expert.
Anyone know what I should trust in the above meters?
All the selenium readings came out different and averaging
the same. Let's say; use the mint condition L-28c2 as a
standard for the selenium meters because there could not
possibly be anything wrong with it -- so I don't get it.
Any advice much appreciated, directives? Orders?
--
}<)))*> Giant_Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C6B237.DCD9BB40
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2900.2912" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT size=3D2></FONT></STRONG><STRONG><FONT=20
size=3D2></FONT></STRONG><BR><STRONG><FONT face=3D"Courier New" =
size=3D2>My light=20
meter tests</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3D"Courier New" =
size=3D2></FONT></STRONG> </DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2>18% gray card =
reflection of sky=20
light, 9:30 - 10:00 AM, </FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2>high sun=20
</FONT></STRONG><STRONG><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2>behind=20
</FONT></STRONG><STRONG><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2>thin high =
clouds, bright=20
enough.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2>ISO 100 set for all=20
meters:</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3D"Courier New" =
size=3D2></FONT></STRONG> </DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2>Pentax K2/50mm =
F/2  18%:=20
125 F/8<BR>(spd)</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3D"Courier New" =
size=3D2></FONT></STRONG> </DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2>Soligor=20
Spot-       18%: 125 F/8  =
+2/3<BR>sensor=20
II (spd)</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3D"Courier New" =
size=3D2></FONT></STRONG> </DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2>Sekonic=20
L-28c2      18%: 125 F/11 +1/3  =
Lumigrid in,=20
high slide out<BR>(selenium, 70's)    Sky: 125 =
F/11 =20
     Lumisphere in, high slide =
in</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3D"Courier New" =
size=3D2></FONT></STRONG> </DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2>Brockway=20
M2         18%: 100 =
F/13 =20
     Photogrid in, high slide out<BR>(selenium, =
50's)    Sky: 100 F/11  =
     Sphere=20
in, high slide in</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3D"Courier New" =
size=3D2></FONT></STRONG> </DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2>Sekonic=20
L-162       18%: 125 F/11=20
+1/2  front closed, slit read<BR>(selenium,=20
60's)    18%: 125 F/8  =
     =20
front open (booster closed </FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3D"Courier New"=20
size=3D2>          &nbs=
p;            =
;            =
            &=
nbsp;   =20
for both)</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT size=3D2></FONT></STRONG><STRONG><FONT=20
size=3D2></FONT></STRONG><BR><STRONG><FONT face=3D"Courier New" =
size=3D2>I bought the=20
K2 used recently, did put one roll of gold </FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2>100 through just=20
</FONT></STRONG><STRONG><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2>to see how =
the shots=20
would come out </FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2>staying straight with =
it's meter=20
</FONT></STRONG><STRONG><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2>readings, =
nothing=20
special. </FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2>They came out like =
"perfect", using=20
the super </FONT></STRONG><STRONG><FONT face=3D"Courier New" =
size=3D2>market's=20
</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2>kodak service. As a =
result I am=20
confused as a non expert. </FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2>Anyone know what I =
should trust in=20
the above meters? </FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3D"Courier New" =
size=3D2></FONT></STRONG> </DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2>All =
</FONT></STRONG><STRONG><FONT=20
face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2>the selenium readings =
</FONT></STRONG><STRONG><FONT=20
face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2>came out different and averaging=20
</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2>the =
</FONT></STRONG><STRONG><FONT=20
face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2>same. Let's say; use the mint=20
</FONT></STRONG><STRONG><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2>condition =
L-28c2 as a=20
</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2>standard for the =
selenium meters=20
because there </FONT></STRONG><STRONG><FONT face=3D"Courier New" =
size=3D2>could not=20
</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2>possibly be anything =
wrong with it=20
-- so I don't get it.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3D"Courier New" =
size=3D2></FONT></STRONG> </DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2>Any advice much =
appreciated,=20
directives? Orders?</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT size=3D2></FONT></STRONG><STRONG><FONT=20
size=3D2></FONT></STRONG><STRONG><FONT =
size=3D2></FONT></STRONG><BR><STRONG><FONT=20
face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2>-- <BR>}<)))*> =20
Giant_Alex<BR>cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com<BR>not my site: =
</FONT></STRONG><A=20
href=3D"http://www.e-sword.net/"><STRONG><FONT face=3D"Courier New"=20
size=3D2>http://www.e-sword.net/</FONT></STRONG></A></DIV></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C6B237.DCD9BB40--

AAvK

Re: light meter tests

Negative film (100 Gold) is not a "reference" means of evaluating
metering. Use slide film such as Sensia 100 (neutral) for "middle"
evaluation (12-13%) and the higlights will lose detail at about +1.7 to
2 stops higher with shaddows rolling off dead black at -1.5 to -2 stops.
With negative film you can over expose by over a stop and the prints
will be well corrected.
Selenium meters do change over time; newer meters are stable over time.
Meters are all a little different due to their design and calibration
standard (manufacturer) but on the whole lie close enough to the 12-14%
grey point (not 18%).
Cheers,
Alan.
--
-- r.p.e.35mm user resource: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm
-- r.p.d.slr-systems: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpdslrsysur.htm
-- [SI] gallery & rulz: http://www.pbase.com/shootin
-- e-meil: Remove FreeLunch.


Alan Browne

Re: light meter tests

I didn't know that, but then again, I can read it perfectly fine.
OK, I will!
--
}<)))*> Giant_Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/


AAvK

Re: light meter tests

Thanks for the reply and good pointers!
hhmph... I read that the card is about reflecting 18% of the 'light' that is
there, this then becomes a proper reading. Nothing about the factor of
'middle gray' as a reading. But that 'middle gray' reflects 18% of the light,
the light itself being the point for the reading. But I will study-up on
gray card reading!
I just used a straight 90º angle, like at a foot and a half away or so and no
shadow allowed. Unless it was closer for the camera so the card would fill
the frame. But the card was not exactly facing the sun either, but straight
up to the sky at the time in the morning that I stated earlier.
That was only about seeing some shots come from the new/used camera,
not quite the scientific point just yet, just to see how it all goes, including
the light meter in it. However, thank you for that lesson on what to do.
--
}<)))*> Giant_Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/


AAvK

Re: light meter tests

.. Take a typical wedding, for example. Bride in white, groom in
Who cares what the reading is? The ambient light should be behind the B/G.
The main light should be from the flash, and the most usable GN should have
been figured out a long time ago. Bob
Hickey


Bob Hickey

Re: light meter tests

...
A few comments:
18% gray as "middle gray" is a myth. Read about it, there is plenty of good
info about it out there. 13% (or actually a bit less than that) is closer to
"middle" gray. Ansel Adams is to blame for that :-)))
Light meters are not calibrated using gray cards but using special light
sources.
Angle of measurement matters with reflected light and your differences can
be accounted for by a different angle used by different meters (assuming all
meters were set/calibrated to the factory specs...)
How you hold the meter in relation to the surface of the card matters, too.
Test with slide film using color charts - C41 negative is useless for
exposure accuracy testing. With color, you want the "proper" density,
highlight and shadow detail and color "accuracy" (note the quotes...) With
B&W you want the first two plus the "proper" gray scale rendition of colors.
All 3 factors are/can be affected by exposure among other things so run your
"personal EI tests" using a selected film and process, one meter and one
camera/lens.
--


EM eL

Re: light meter tests

They're good, but not the only good meter. F'rinstance they can only do
spot readings. A meter like the Sekonic L-508 or better can do spot,
incident, reflected, and flash readings, much more versatile than a
simple spot meter, and it's accuracy is down to 1/10 stop - which is
somewhat pedantic I guess, but nice to know. For shooting digital,
incident measurement is excellent, as it guards against blown highlights
better than other methods. My major concern with spot meters, and the
reason I sold my pentax V, is that unless you can use a gray card to
meter your shots, you have to guess what part of your scene is 18% gray
if you want an accurate reading. I used to end up measuring the
brightest and darkest areas of interest and averaging the readings, but
by then the subject had gone home and the sun was setting
(figuratively).
I can't understand the enthusiasm for spot meters, like one of the
points touted about the D70 over the 350D and 20D is spot metering, but
careless or poorly understood use of spot readings can lead one astray
very easily, more so even than a general or centre-weighted reflected
reading. Take a typical wedding, for example. Bride in white, groom in
black morning suit, bridesmaids in gamut-threatening colors, red brick
church, etc., what are you going to use for your spot reference? Ask
the bride to hold a gray card? Incident metering solves all this
hassle.
YMMV,
Colin D.
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com


ColinD

Re: light meter tests

Using anything other than the classic Pentax Spotmeter V is totally and
utterly foolish. I find mine to be killer and spot on!
Rita


=?iso-8859-1?Q?Rita_=C4_Berkowitz?=

Re: light meter tests

That's about what you would expect with meters of different types. If
you take f/11 as the reference, then your variations are minus one stop
(f/8), and plus 2/3rds stop (f/13). With age, selenium meters tend to
read low, leading to overexposure, and CdS meters (I think the Pentax
uses a CdS) can be sluggish, especially going from bright to less bright
light. I think Pentaxes used mercury batteries at 1.3 volts, now
unavailable. Substituting an alkaline or lithium battery will cause the
readings to be way off.
If as you say the light was almost full sunlight, I would expect the
exposure to be 1/125 at about f/11 to f/13, based on the sunny f/16
rule.
Colin D.
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com


ColinD

Re: light meter tests

It makes your post hard to read. There are other things, too, but too
complex and beyond the scope of this course.....
Please just use plain text on usenet!
--
John McWilliams


John McWilliams

Re: light meter tests

Most of the other answers are right in that different meters will rarely
agree with each other.
My own meter tests usually yielded even greater differences than yours.
Also, older selenium meters may often have dodgy cells (usually
depending on how much light they have been exposed to - a good
light-tight case is significant here). That said, some older selenium
meters are still my references...
Decide which meter gives *you* the best results and use that as a reference.


Chris Loffredo

Content - light meter tests
Found 14 post(s). Page 1 of 2
| 1 | 2 |










 
Dolenjska Property - Mortgage Loan - Social Bookmarking - Egypt Phone Cards - Hawaii Military Golf Courses
Photoshop questions